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Antikuna sp. Herradura

Andean Blue Beauty - complete care guide

Andean Blue Beauty

Beginner care Forgiving of common mistakes. Tolerant of temperature/humidity variation. Great first tarantula. πŸ•³οΈ Fossorial Lives underground in deep burrows. Needs deep, packed substrate to dig. You may rarely see them - patience required. 🌎 New World 🟒 Docile Generally slow-moving and tolerant of handling. Rarely threatens or bites. Great for beginners. Reclusive Family: Theraphosidae
Antikuna sp. Herradura
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Temperature

18-22 Β°C

Target ambient range

Humidity

60-75 %

Substrate / enclosure RH

Adult DLS

10-12 cm

Average - varies per individual

Moult interval

Sling 4-9w - Juv 2.7-4.3mo

Adult 11-16mo

Adult cycle = mature females; males never moult again after maturity

About

The Andean Blue Beauty ("Herradura" = horseshoe, after its type locality) - an undescribed Antikuna, the genus that holds the ALTITUDE RECORD for any tarantula (4,689 m in Peru). Gorgeous blue over a fossorial lifestyle: burrows under stones with a light silk collar, disappears for days, then ambushes with a quick lunge. Cool care to the bone (18-22 Β°C, no heat mat ever) - a British windowsill is practically its homeland. Brand new to the hobby at Β£60 a sling.

Husbandry cheat sheet

Origin
Peru (high Andean highlands)
Habitat
Extreme-altitude slopes - burrows under stones
Temperament
Docile
In your collection
0

Growth, lifespan & conservation

Growth rate
Slow
Maturity
♀ 60mo β™‚ 42mo
Lifespan
♀ 15yr β™‚ 4yr
Continent
South America
UK availability
Rare in the hobby

Care Guide

Antikuna sp. Herradura

Andean Blue Beauty - a complete husbandry sheet. Use as a starting point and adjust to your individual specimen.

Field Notes
01

What size enclosure does an Andean Blue Beauty Tarantula need?

Adults

25 Γ— 20 cm footprint with 10 cm of substrate and stable stones.

Slings & Juveniles

Small tubs with 6 cm of substrate and a flat stone.

To map exact floor space and substrate safety limits for your setup, use our free interactive tarantula enclosure planner.

02

What temperature and humidity does an Andean Blue Beauty Tarantula need?

Heating

The Andean Blue Beauties is comfortable at 18-22 Β°C with cool nights tolerated - no supplementary heat in UK homes, ever.

Humidity

60-75 %: mostly dry substrate, one damp corner, full water dish.

Ventilation

Cross-ventilation with moderate humidity - ventilate well.

03

What substrate is best for an Andean Blue Beauty Tarantula?

Recommended Mixes

βœ“ Coco fibre / topsoil mix βœ“ Coco fibre

Depth

10 cm

Notes

Deep and packable under stones, holding burrow structure.

04

How do you set up an Andean Blue Beauty Tarantula enclosure?

DΓ©cor

🌿 Flat stones (level and stable) 🌿 Cork bark slabs 🌿 Spider wood / driftwood 🌿 Fake plants

The Hide

Its own burrow under a flat stone, with a light silk lining at the mouth.

Water

Always provide a shallow fresh water dish.

Lighting

Ambient room light only.

05

How often should you feed an Andean Blue Beauty Tarantula?

Slings Every 5-7 days (fruit flies, pre-killed crickets or tiny roach nymphs).
Juveniles Every 7-10 days (small crickets or roach nymphs).
Adults Every 10-14 days (small-medium roach) - slow metabolism.

Good Feeders

πŸ¦— Crickets πŸͺ³ Small dubia roaches πŸ¦— Locusts (small) πŸͺ³ Roach nymphs

Long refusal worrying you? Separate premoult fasting from genuine problems with our "Is my T okay?" checker.

06

Is my Andean Blue Beauty Tarantula dying or moulting?

Pre-moult signs to look for

Refusing food for weeks is normal before a moult - an healthy Andean Blue Beauty Tarantula fasting is almost never an emergency in itself. Watch for slowing down and spending more time in the hide, sealing the burrow entrance with silk (a sealed door usually means "do not disturb - moulting in progress"), laying a thick moult mat of web on the floor. New World species like this one often show a bald spot on the abdomen that darkens to near-black as the new skin underneath readies - a darkening bald patch is a reliable countdown, not a disease.

On its back is MOULTING, not dying

An Andean Blue Beauty Tarantula lying upside down or on its side with legs curled inwards is almost certainly mid-moult. Do not touch it, do not right it, do not mist it - just remove any live prey (crickets can kill a defenceless moulter) and leave the room.

How long between moults?

For this species, expect a moult roughly every 30-60 days for spiderlings, every 80-130 days for juveniles, and every 180-290 days for sub-adults, with adult females moulting around every 11.3 months (up to 16 months at the extreme). Males never moult again after their ultimate (mature) moult.

After the moult: fang hardening time

The new exoskeleton stays soft, with fangs that cannot grip, for roughly 7 days in this species. Offer no food and no handling for about 7 days - feeding too early is how fresh moulters get injured. The shed exuvium is also the best sexing tool there is - see our tarantula sexing guide for what to look for.

Genuinely worried about behaviour that is not moulting? Our "Is my T okay?" triage tool walks the danger signs one by one.

07

What ongoing care does an Andean Blue Beauty Tarantula need?

πŸͺž Moulting

Moults at the burrow bottom. Do not lift the stone; keep water available; wait until it reopens and the fangs are black before feeding. Adult intervals apply to mature FEMALES - a mature male never moults again.

🧹 Cleaning

Daily: check the water dish. Weekly: remove boluses near the burrow mouth.

βœ‹ Handling

Shy and reclusive but harmless - observe rather than handle.

08

What are the most common mistakes when keeping Andean Blue Beauty Tarantulas?

βœ“ What They Love

  • COOL room temperature - extreme-altitude genus
  • Deep substrate + flat stones to burrow under
  • One damp corner + full water dish
  • Cross-ventilation
  • Patience with its disappearing acts

βœ• Common Mistakes

  • Heating mats - the fastest way to kill it
  • Wet substrate throughout
  • Digging to check on it
  • Expecting a display spider

Keep exploring: related care guides

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