Avicularia braunshauseni
Giant Pinktoe - complete care guide
Often searched as: Aviculara braunshauseni.
Giant Pinktoe
Temperature
22-27 °C
Target ambient range
Humidity
70-80 %
Substrate / enclosure RH
Adult DLS
13-17 cm
Average - varies per individual
Moult interval
Sling 3-6w - Juv 1.7-2.8mo
Adult 10-14mo
Adult cycle = mature females; males never moult again after maturity
About
The Giant Pinktoe - the largest pinktoe in the hobby at 13-17 cm, velvety dark green-grey with peach-pink toe tips. Name caveat: "braunshauseni" is a nomen dubium (the 2017 Avicularia revision found the type was never deposited), so this is a stable hobby label rather than a confirmed species - good captive stock is worth preserving regardless. Classic tall-enclosure pinktoe care: cross-ventilation or it dies, misted walls, and lightning bolts when startled.
Husbandry cheat sheet
- Origin
- Northern South America (trade)
- Habitat
- Tropical rainforest canopy
- Temperament
- Docile
- In your collection
- 0
Growth, lifespan & conservation
- Growth rate
- Medium
- Maturity
- ♀ 36mo ♂ 30mo
- Lifespan
- ♀ 12yr ♂ 4yr
- Continent
- South America
- UK availability
- Uncommon
Care Guide
Avicularia braunshauseni
Giant Pinktoe - a complete husbandry sheet. Use as a starting point and adjust to your individual specimen.
What size enclosure does a Giant Pinktoe Tarantula need?
Adults
30 × 30 × 45 cm tall - height matters more than footprint. Generous vertical cork and anchor points for webbing.
Slings & Juveniles
Small tall vials or arboreal sling tubs with a piece of vertical cork. Upgrade as they grow - arboreal slings do best slightly cramped.
To map exact floor space and substrate safety limits for your setup, use our free interactive tarantula enclosure planner.
What temperature and humidity does a Giant Pinktoe Tarantula need?
Heating
The Giant Pinktoe is comfortable at 22-27 °C, with a night-time drop. Most UK homes sit below this for much of the year; heat the room rather than the enclosure if winter drops under 20 °C.
Humidity
70-80 % with strong cross-flow: mist the walls and webbing lightly, keep the substrate barely damp, never a wet box.
Ventilation
The single most important husbandry factor for this species. Cross-flow (top + side mesh) is non-negotiable - stagnant air causes the classic pinktoe death spiral.
What substrate is best for a Giant Pinktoe Tarantula?
Recommended Mixes
Depth
3-5 cm
Notes
Substrate is mostly a moisture buffer - arboreals live above it. Keep one corner lightly damp, never wet throughout.
How do you set up a Giant Pinktoe Tarantula enclosure?
Décor
The Hide
A vertical cork tube or propped bark retreat positioned up off the floor - they silk it into a hideout within days.
Water
Shallow dish on the floor. Even dedicated canopy dwellers descend to drink - keep it full and clean.
Lighting
Ambient room light only. Avoid basking lamps - they desiccate arboreal species quickly.
How often should you feed a Giant Pinktoe Tarantula?
Good Feeders
Long refusal worrying you? Separate premoult fasting from genuine problems with our "Is my T okay?" checker.
Is my Giant Pinktoe Tarantula dying or moulting?
Pre-moult signs to look for
Refusing food for weeks is normal before a moult - a healthy Giant Pinktoe Tarantula fasting is almost never an emergency in itself. Watch for slowing down and spending more time in the hide, thickening the silk hammock it sleeps in. New World species like this one often show a bald spot on the abdomen that darkens to near-black as the new skin underneath readies - a darkening bald patch is a reliable countdown, not a disease.
On its back is MOULTING, not dying
A Giant Pinktoe Tarantula lying upside down or on its side with legs curled inwards is almost certainly mid-moult. Do not touch it, do not right it, do not mist it - just remove any live prey (crickets can kill a defenceless moulter) and leave the room.
How long between moults?
For this species, expect a moult roughly every 21-42 days for spiderlings, every 50-85 days for juveniles, and every 170-260 days for sub-adults, with adult females moulting around every 10 months (up to 14 months at the extreme). Males never moult again after their ultimate (mature) moult.
After the moult: fang hardening time
The new exoskeleton stays soft, with fangs that cannot grip, for roughly 7 days in this species. Offer no food and no handling for about 7 days - feeding too early is how fresh moulters get injured. The shed exuvium is also the best sexing tool there is - see our tarantula sexing guide for what to look for.
Genuinely worried about behaviour that is not moulting? Our "Is my T okay?" triage tool walks the danger signs one by one.
What ongoing care does a Giant Pinktoe Tarantula need?
🪞 Moulting
Arboreals often moult suspended in a web hammock. Do not disturb, remove prey, and slightly raise humidity around the time. Wait 5-7 days post-moult before offering food. Adult intervals apply to mature females - males never moult after their ultimate moult.
🧹 Cleaning
Spot clean webbed boluses when visible, refresh the water dish weekly. Full clean only when soiled.
✋ Handling
Docile but among the jumpiest spiders in the hobby - never free-handled. Catch cup only.
What are the most common mistakes when keeping Giant Pinktoe Tarantulas?
✓ What They Love
- Tall enclosure with vertical cork
- Strong cross-ventilation
- Mist one wall - let it cycle dry
- Clamping/secure lid - a startled pinktoe teleports
- Prey no bigger than the abdomen
✕ Common Mistakes
- Free handling - a jump from height kills
- Sealed, unventilated tanks
- Soaked substrate - pinktoes rot in stagnant wet
- Feeding into a webbed-shut retreat - leave it alone until it reopens
Keep exploring: related care guides
More arboreal species and close relatives from our full library:
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