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Hapalotremus hananqheswa

High Valley Blue - complete care guide

High Valley Blue

Beginner care Forgiving of common mistakes. Tolerant of temperature/humidity variation. Great first tarantula. 🌍 Terrestrial Lives on or near the ground. Needs floor space more than height. Falls from height can be fatal - keep dΓ©cor low. 🌎 New World πŸ’¨ Skittish Easily startled - may bolt or dart suddenly when disturbed. Secure lids are essential as they can be escape artists. Reclusive Family: Theraphosidae
Hapalotremus hananqheswa
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Temperature

18-24 Β°C

Target ambient range

Humidity

70-80 %

Substrate / enclosure RH

Adult DLS

8-10 cm

Average - varies per individual

Moult interval

Sling 4-9w - Juv 2.7-4.3mo

Adult 11-16mo

Adult cycle = mature females; males never moult again after maturity

About

The High Valley Blue (Hapalotremus hananqheswa, 2021 - Quechua for "high valley") - a blue Peruvian Andean with a mirror patch, from genuinely high altitude. Cool-kept like its cousin the "Puma" (18-24 Β°C, no heat mat), skittish and reclusive rather than defensive, with a bank-substrate burrowing habit. Super-rare at Β£60 a sling and slow-growing - a keeper's piece rather than a starter, despite the easy temperament.

Husbandry cheat sheet

Origin
Peru (high Andes)
Habitat
High-altitude valley slopes - burrows
Temperament
Skittish
In your collection
0

Growth, lifespan & conservation

Growth rate
Slow
Maturity
♀ 60mo β™‚ 42mo
Lifespan
♀ 15yr β™‚ 4yr
Continent
South America
UK availability
Rare in the hobby

Care Guide

Hapalotremus hananqheswa

High Valley Blue - a complete husbandry sheet. Use as a starting point and adjust to your individual specimen.

Field Notes
01

What size enclosure does a High Valley Blue Tarantula need?

Adults

25 Γ— 25 cm footprint with 8 cm of banked substrate.

Slings & Juveniles

Small tubs with 5 cm of substrate and a hide.

To map exact floor space and substrate safety limits for your setup, use our free interactive tarantula enclosure planner.

02

What temperature and humidity does a High Valley Blue Tarantula need?

Heating

The High Valley Blues is comfortable at 18-24 Β°C - genuinely cool-kept; UK room temperature usually suffices and supplementary heat is a mistake.

Humidity

70-80 %: keep the substrate lightly and consistently moist - Andean cloud, not desert.

Ventilation

Cross-ventilation with moderate-high humidity.

03

What substrate is best for a High Valley Blue Tarantula?

Recommended Mixes

βœ“ Coco fibre βœ“ Coco fibre / topsoil mix

Depth

8 cm

Notes

Deep and packable, banked against one side for burrow construction.

04

How do you set up a High Valley Blue Tarantula enclosure?

DΓ©cor

🌿 Cork bark 🌿 Flat stones (level and stable) 🌿 Spider wood / driftwood 🌿 Fake plants

The Hide

A burrow excavated into banked substrate under cork or stone.

Water

Always provide a shallow fresh water dish.

Lighting

No special lighting needed.

05

How often should you feed a High Valley Blue Tarantula?

Slings Every 5-7 days (fruit flies, pre-killed crickets or tiny roach nymphs).
Juveniles Every 7-10 days (small crickets or roach nymphs).
Adults Every 10-14 days (small-medium roach).

Good Feeders

πŸ¦— Crickets πŸͺ³ Small dubia roaches πŸ¦— Locusts (small) πŸͺ³ Roach nymphs

Long refusal worrying you? Separate premoult fasting from genuine problems with our "Is my T okay?" checker.

06

Is my High Valley Blue Tarantula dying or moulting?

Pre-moult signs to look for

Refusing food for weeks is normal before a moult - a healthy High Valley Blue Tarantula fasting is almost never an emergency in itself. Watch for slowing down and spending more time in the hide, laying a thick moult mat of web on the floor. New World species like this one often show a bald spot on the abdomen that darkens to near-black as the new skin underneath readies - a darkening bald patch is a reliable countdown, not a disease.

On its back is MOULTING, not dying

A High Valley Blue Tarantula lying upside down or on its side with legs curled inwards is almost certainly mid-moult. Do not touch it, do not right it, do not mist it - just remove any live prey (crickets can kill a defenceless moulter) and leave the room.

How long between moults?

For this species, expect a moult roughly every 30-60 days for spiderlings, every 80-130 days for juveniles, and every 180-290 days for sub-adults, with adult females moulting around every 11.3 months (up to 16 months at the extreme). Males never moult again after their ultimate (mature) moult.

After the moult: fang hardening time

The new exoskeleton stays soft, with fangs that cannot grip, for roughly 7 days in this species. Offer no food and no handling for about 7 days - feeding too early is how fresh moulters get injured. The shed exuvium is also the best sexing tool there is - see our tarantula sexing guide for what to look for.

Genuinely worried about behaviour that is not moulting? Our "Is my T okay?" triage tool walks the danger signs one by one.

07

What ongoing care does a High Valley Blue Tarantula need?

πŸͺž Moulting

Signs: refuses food, abdomen darkens, becomes sluggish. Do not disturb; keep humidity steady; wait for black hard fangs before feeding. Adult intervals apply to mature FEMALES - a mature male never moults again.

🧹 Cleaning

Daily: check the water dish. Weekly: remove boluses and spot-clean.

βœ‹ Handling

Skittish but harmless - observe rather than handle.

08

What are the most common mistakes when keeping High Valley Blue Tarantulas?

βœ“ What They Love

  • Cool room temperature - high Andean stock
  • Moist (not wet) substrate with airflow
  • Banked substrate for burrowing
  • Cross-ventilation
  • Patience with slow growth

βœ• Common Mistakes

  • Heating - above ~26 Β°C highland stock declines
  • Bone-dry substrate
  • Expecting a display spider
  • Fast growth

Keep exploring: related care guides

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