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Holothele longipes

Trinidad Pink - complete care guide

Trinidad Pink

Beginner care Forgiving of common mistakes. Tolerant of temperature/humidity variation. Great first tarantula. 🌍 Terrestrial Lives on or near the ground. Needs floor space more than height. Falls from height can be fatal - keep décor low. 🌎 New World 🟢 Docile Generally slow-moving and tolerant of handling. Rarely threatens or bites. Great for beginners. ⚡ Fast Moves very quickly, especially when startled. Can cross an enclosure in the blink of an eye. Not recommended for handling. 🕸️ Heavy webber Dense, prolific webbing behaviour. Will carpet the entire enclosure in thick silk - this is normal and healthy. Provides a visual indicator of the spider's territory. Dwarf Family: Theraphosidae
Holothele longipes
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Temperature

21-27 °C

Target ambient range

Humidity

75-85 %

Substrate / enclosure RH

Adult DLS

5-7 cm

Average - varies per individual

Moult interval

Sling 2-5w - Juv 1.2-1.9mo

Adult 3-6mo

Adult cycle = mature females; males never moult again after maturity

About

The Trinidad Pink - a hummingbird-sized dwarf from its namesake island that glows coral-pink across carapace and abdomen for weeks after each moult. A Neoholothele-style whirlwind: fast-growing, heavy-webbing, tunnels through its substrate like a miniature earthmover, and matures in about a year. Docile but far too quick and fragile to handle. A perfect "little sparkler" species for dwarf fans - cheap, charming and constantly busy.

Husbandry cheat sheet

Origin
Trinidad & Tobago / Venezuela
Habitat
Tropical forest floor
Temperament
Docile
In your collection
0

Growth, lifespan & conservation

Growth rate
Fast
Maturity
♀ 12mo ♂ 10mo
Lifespan
♀ 8yr ♂ 2yr
Continent
South America
UK availability
Uncommon

Care Guide

Holothele longipes

Trinidad Pink - a complete husbandry sheet. Use as a starting point and adjust to your individual specimen.

Field Notes
01

What size enclosure does a Trinidad Pink Tarantula need?

Adults

15 × 15 cm is plenty for a mature female - dwarfs hunt poorly in big tubs. 8 cm of substrate for tunnelling.

Slings & Juveniles

Small tubs with 4-5 cm of substrate and a starter burrow.

To map exact floor space and substrate safety limits for your setup, use our free interactive tarantula enclosure planner.

02

What temperature and humidity does a Trinidad Pink Tarantula need?

Heating

The Trinidad Pinks is comfortable at 21-27 °C. Most UK homes manage for most of the year; warm the room only if winter drops under 19 °C.

Humidity

75-85 %: keep the substrate consistently moist-packed with a drier surface corner. Dry spells cause bad moults at this size.

Ventilation

Cross-ventilation with a damp-but-not-wet substrate - fine mesh only.

03

What substrate is best for a Trinidad Pink Tarantula?

Recommended Mixes

✓ Coco fibre ✓ Coco fibre / topsoil mix

Depth

6-8 cm

Notes

The enclosure IS the substrate. Damp-packed and deep enough for tunnels, with a moisture gradient - damp below, drier above.

04

How do you set up a Trinidad Pink Tarantula enclosure?

Décor

🌿 Cork bark pieces 🌿 Spider wood / branches 🌿 Fake plants 🌿 Leaf litter

The Hide

Its own web-tunnel system through the substrate and décor - a starter burrow under cork gets things started.

Water

A bottle cap or tiny dish on the surface; damp substrate covers most hydration needs.

Lighting

No special lighting needed. Ambient room light is enough.

05

How often should you feed a Trinidad Pink Tarantula?

Slings Every 3-4 days (fruit flies or pre-killed first-instar crickets).
Juveniles Every 4-5 days (cricket hatchlings or tiny roach nymphs).
Adults Every 5-7 days (small cricket or roach nymph).

Good Feeders

🍖 Fruit flies 🦗 Cricket hatchlings 🦗 Small crickets 🪳 Roach nymphs

Long refusal worrying you? Separate premoult fasting from genuine problems with our "Is my T okay?" checker.

06

Is my Trinidad Pink Tarantula dying or moulting?

Pre-moult signs to look for

Refusing food for weeks is normal before a moult - a healthy Trinidad Pink Tarantula fasting is almost never an emergency in itself. Watch for slowing down and spending more time in the hide, laying a thick moult mat of web on the floor. New World species like this one often show a bald spot on the abdomen that darkens to near-black as the new skin underneath readies - a darkening bald patch is a reliable countdown, not a disease.

On its back is MOULTING, not dying

A Trinidad Pink Tarantula lying upside down or on its side with legs curled inwards is almost certainly mid-moult. Do not touch it, do not right it, do not mist it - just remove any live prey (crickets can kill a defenceless moulter) and leave the room.

How long between moults?

For this species, expect a moult roughly every 16-32 days for spiderlings, every 35-58 days for juveniles, and every 65-105 days for sub-adults, with adult females moulting around every 3.3 months (up to 5.7 months at the extreme). Males never moult again after their ultimate (mature) moult.

After the moult: fang hardening time

The new exoskeleton stays soft, with fangs that cannot grip, for roughly 4 days in this species. Offer no food and no handling for about 7 days - feeding too early is how fresh moulters get injured. The shed exuvium is also the best sexing tool there is - see our tarantula sexing guide for what to look for.

Genuinely worried about behaviour that is not moulting? Our "Is my T okay?" triage tool walks the danger signs one by one.

07

What ongoing care does a Trinidad Pink Tarantula need?

🪞 Moulting

Usually moults inside the web tunnel. Do not dig to check; keep humidity steady and prey out, then wait 3-5 days post-moult (small species harden fast) before feeding. Adult intervals apply to mature females - males never moult after their ultimate moult.

🧹 Cleaning

Refresh the bottle-cap water dish weekly; spot clean boluses from around the tunnel mouths.

✋ Handling

Docile but lightning-fast and fragile - observe, do not handle.

08

What are the most common mistakes when keeping Trinidad Pink Tarantulas?

✓ What They Love

  • Consistently moist (not wet) substrate
  • Small prey
  • Anchor points for web tunnels
  • Cross-ventilation
  • Escape-proofing - dwarfs slip tiny gaps

✕ Common Mistakes

  • Letting substrate dry out - dysecdysis risk at this size
  • Large prey
  • Coarse ventilation holes
  • Expecting a sedate display spider

Keep exploring: related care guides

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