Lasiocyano sazimai
Brazilian Blue Beauty - complete care guide
Brazilian Blue Beauty
Temperature
22-28 °C
Target ambient range
Humidity
60-75 %
Substrate / enclosure RH
Adult DLS
13-15 cm
Average - varies per individual
Moult interval
Sling 3-6w - Juv 2-3mo
Adult 12-16mo
Adult cycle = mature females; males never moult again after maturity
About
Endemic to the shrublands of Brazil's Chapada Diamantina, the Brazilian Blue Beauty (Lasiocyano sazimai, formerly Pterinopelma sazimai) shows one of the most electric blues in the hobby - a sheen that intensifies after each moult. A calm, terrestrial New World species reaching around 14 cm, it flicks urticating hairs rather than biting, making it a forgiving intermediate species. Deep dry substrate, a fresh water dish and good cross-ventilation are all it asks for.
Husbandry cheat sheet
- Origin
- Americas
- Habitat
- Savannah/Forest Floor
- Temperament
- Skittish
- In your collection
- 0
Growth, lifespan & conservation
- Growth rate
- Medium
- Maturity
- ♀ 22mo ♂ 16mo
- Lifespan
- ♀ 12yr ♂ 3yr
- Continent
- Americas
- UK availability
- Commonly available
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Care Guide
Lasiocyano sazimai
Brazilian Blue Beauty - a complete husbandry sheet. Use as a starting point and adjust to your individual specimen.
What size enclosure does a Brazilian Blue Beauty Tarantula need?
Adults
40 × 30 cm (16 × 12 in) for a mature adult. This is a large species. Floor space matters more than height.
Slings & Juveniles
House spiderlings in small, appropriately sized deli cups or sling enclosures - oversized enclosures make prey capture difficult. Upgrade roughly every 2-3 moults.
To map exact floor space and substrate safety limits for your setup, use our free interactive tarantula enclosure planner.
What temperature and humidity does a Brazilian Blue Beauty Tarantula need?
Heating
The Brazilian Blue Beauty is comfortable at 22-28 °C. Most UK homes sit in or near this range for most of the year; heat the room rather than the enclosure if winter drops below it.
Humidity
Chapada Diamantina shrubland: 60-70 %, dry substrate, full water dish, one barely-damp corner at most. The electric blue of Brazilian Blue Beauty is produced dry, not wet - damp setups dull both colour and health.
Ventilation
Cross-ventilation is essential - side-vented enclosures, never stagnant. Poor airflow plus humidity kills faster than dryness ever will.
What substrate is best for a Brazilian Blue Beauty Tarantula?
Recommended Mixes
Depth
6-8 cm
Notes
Keep substrate dry to barely moist - never soaking. Pack it firm enough to support décor.
How do you set up a Brazilian Blue Beauty Tarantula enclosure?
Décor
The Hide
A cork bark half-log, leaning slab, or cork tube placed on the substrate.
Water
Always provide a shallow fresh water dish. Keep it full and clean it regularly. No sponges.
Lighting
No special lighting needed. Ambient room light is enough; avoid heat lamps and bright spotlights.
How often should you feed a Brazilian Blue Beauty Tarantula?
Good Feeders
Long refusal worrying you? Separate premoult fasting from genuine problems with our "Is my T okay?" checker.
Is my Brazilian Blue Beauty Tarantula dying or moulting?
Pre-moult signs to look for
Refusing food for weeks is normal before a moult - a healthy Brazilian Blue Beauty Tarantula fasting is almost never an emergency in itself. Watch for slowing down and spending more time in the hide, laying a thick moult mat of web on the floor. New World species like this one often show a bald spot on the abdomen that darkens to near-black as the new skin underneath readies - a darkening bald patch is a reliable countdown, not a disease.
On its back is MOULTING, not dying
A Brazilian Blue Beauty Tarantula lying upside down or on its side with legs curled inwards is almost certainly mid-moult. Do not touch it, do not right it, do not mist it - just remove any live prey (crickets can kill a defenceless moulter) and leave the room.
How long between moults?
For this species, expect a moult roughly every 21-42 days for spiderlings, every 60-90 days for juveniles, and every 219-310 days for sub-adults, with adult females moulting around every 12.2 months (up to 15.8 months at the extreme). Males never moult again after their ultimate (mature) moult.
After the moult: fang hardening time
The new exoskeleton stays soft, with fangs that cannot grip, for roughly 5 days in this species. Offer no food and no handling for about 7 days - feeding too early is how fresh moulters get injured. The shed exuvium is also the best sexing tool there is - see our tarantula sexing guide for what to look for.
Genuinely worried about behaviour that is not moulting? Our "Is my T okay?" triage tool walks the danger signs one by one.
What ongoing care does a Brazilian Blue Beauty Tarantula need?
🪞 Moulting
Signs: refuses food, abdomen darkens and goes glossy, becomes sluggish, often heavy webbing or a moult mat. During the moult: do not disturb, remove any live prey, keep water available. Wait until the fangs are black and hard (several days for adults, 1-2 for slings) before feeding again. Adult intervals apply to mature FEMALES - a mature male never moults again (his ultimate moult is his last), and female cycles stretch or shrink with feeding and temperature.
🧹 Cleaning
Daily: check the water dish. Weekly: remove uneaten prey boluses and spot-clean. Full deep clean only every few months, and only when necessary.
✋ Handling
Calm, deliberate movers - one of the better-tempered medium New World species. Hair-flickers when annoyed; floor-level handling.
What are the most common mistakes when keeping Brazilian Blue Beauty Tarantulas?
✓ What They Love
- Fresh water dish at all times
- Cross-ventilation
- Stable room temperature
- A proper hide and a few anchor points
- Dry, bright (ambient) conditions to keep the blue at full intensity
✕ Common Mistakes
- Soaking-wet substrate
- Daily misting
- Heat mat underneath the enclosure
- Tall enclosures with hard décor (fall risk for terrestrials)
Keep exploring: related care guides
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