Orphnaecus philippinus
Philippine Tangerine - complete care guide
Philippine Tangerine
Temperature
22-27 °C
Target ambient range
Humidity
65-80 %
Substrate / enclosure RH
Adult DLS
10-13 cm
Average - varies per individual
Moult interval
Sling 3-6w - Juv 1.5-2.5mo
Adult 8-11mo
Adult cycle = mature females; males never moult again after maturity
About
The Philippine Tangerine (also sold as Philippine Orange or Neon Orange) is a vivid orange Old World burrower from Negros and Panay. Described by Schmidt in 1999 and moved into Orphnaecus in 2012, a 2025 revision revalidated it as Selenobrachys philippinus - UK shops still label it Orphnaecus, so expect both names on lineage records. Females reach 10-13 cm DLS, live around 12 years and spend most of their time at the burrow mouth under heavy sheet webbing, with the full tangerine glow usually on show in the evening. Fast, reclusive and genuinely defensive with a medically significant bite risk - an advanced display species, not a handling one. UK captive-bred slings appear regularly at around £10.
Husbandry cheat sheet
- Origin
- Philippines (Negros & Panay)
- Habitat
- Humid tropical forest floor - deep silk-lined burrows in moist, well-draining soil
- Temperament
- Defensive
- In your collection
- 0
Growth, lifespan & conservation
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Maturity
- ♀ 48mo ♂ 24mo
- Lifespan
- ♀ 12yr ♂ 3yr
- Continent
- Asia
- UK availability
- Commonly available
Care Guide
Orphnaecus philippinus
Philippine Tangerine - a complete husbandry sheet. Use as a starting point and adjust to your individual specimen.
What size enclosure does a Philippine Tangerine Tarantula need?
Adults
20 × 20 × 30 cm with 15-20 cm of packed substrate - vertical digging space matters more than floor area.
Slings & Juveniles
Small tubs with 8-10 cm of packed substrate and a starter burrow. Upgrade dig depth as they grow.
To map exact floor space and substrate safety limits for your setup, use our free interactive tarantula enclosure planner.
What temperature and humidity does a Philippine Tangerine Tarantula need?
Heating
22-27 °C suits them; heat the room, never the enclosure floor. If winter drops below 20 °C, a thermostatically controlled heat source on the room side of the setup only.
Humidity
65-80 % achieved by keeping the lower substrate moist and the surface just damp. Never mist directly into the burrow entrance.
Ventilation
Cross-flow ventilation over a moisture gradient: bottom third damp, surface drier. Stagnant wet air is the main killer of Philippine burrowers.
What substrate is best for a Philippine Tangerine Tarantula?
Recommended Mixes
Depth
15-20 cm
Notes
Coco fibre / topsoil mix packed FIRMLY so tunnels hold shape. This is the single most important element of Philippine Tangerine husbandry.
How do you set up a Philippine Tangerine Tarantula enclosure?
Décor
The Hide
A starter burrow - pre-made hole under cork or a piece of bark - is far more important than a hide. They excavate and silk their own tunnel system within days.
Water
Shallow dish on the surface near the burrow mouth. Keep full; the damp substrate gradient does most of the hydration work.
Lighting
Ambient room light only - most activity happens at dusk and night, which is also when the colour really shows.
How often should you feed a Philippine Tangerine Tarantula?
Good Feeders
Long refusal worrying you? Separate premoult fasting from genuine problems with our "Is my T okay?" checker.
Is my Philippine Tangerine Tarantula dying or moulting?
Pre-moult signs to look for
Refusing food for weeks is normal before a moult - a healthy Philippine Tangerine Tarantula fasting is almost never an emergency in itself. Watch for slowing down and spending more time in the hide, sealing the burrow entrance with silk (a sealed door usually means "do not disturb - moulting in progress"), laying a thick moult mat of web on the floor. Old World species do not flick urticating hairs, so there is no bald patch to watch - rely on fasting, lethargy and hide time instead.
On its back is MOULTING, not dying
A Philippine Tangerine Tarantula lying upside down or on its side with legs curled inwards is almost certainly mid-moult. Do not touch it, do not right it, do not mist it - just remove any live prey (crickets can kill a defenceless moulter) and leave the room.
How long between moults?
For this species, expect a moult roughly every 21-42 days for spiderlings, every 45-75 days for juveniles, and every 150-240 days for sub-adults, with adult females moulting around every 8 months (up to 11 months at the extreme). Males never moult again after their ultimate (mature) moult.
After the moult: fang hardening time
The new exoskeleton stays soft, with fangs that cannot grip, for roughly 8 days in this species. Offer no food and no handling for about 8 days - feeding too early is how fresh moulters get injured. The shed exuvium is also the best sexing tool there is - see our tarantula sexing guide for what to look for.
Genuinely worried about behaviour that is not moulting? Our "Is my T okay?" triage tool walks the danger signs one by one.
What ongoing care does a Philippine Tangerine Tarantula need?
🪞 Moulting
Expect the burrow entrance to seal with dense silk before a moult - do not excavate. Slings moult roughly every 3 weeks, adults stretch to 8-11 months. Wait 7-10 days post-moult before feeding, and never dig a freshly moulted spider out to check on it.
🧹 Cleaning
Spot clean boluses from the webbing when visible and refresh the water dish weekly. Deep cleans are rare - the burrow is the point; disturb it as little as possible.
✋ Handling
Not a handling species. Defensive threat postures escalate to bites, and related Asian selenocosmiine venom causes severe pain and cramping. Always rehouse with a large catch cup and a planned escape route.
What are the most common mistakes when keeping Philippine Tangerine Tarantulas?
✓ What They Love
- 15-20 cm of compacted substrate - they dig deep tunnels
- Strong cross-ventilation with a moist base and drier surface layer
- Secure clamping lid - a startled one covers ground frighteningly fast
- Prey no bigger than the abdomen, offered at the burrow mouth
- Catch cup ready BEFORE any lid comes off for rehousing
✕ Common Mistakes
- Free handling or poking into the burrow - fast, defensive, medically significant bite
- Heat mat under the enclosure - burrowers overheat in their tunnels
- Soaked swampy substrate - damp base, dry surface, airflow
- Breaking open a sealed entrance - it is sealed for premoult or peace, leave it
- Cohabiting - not communal, ends in cannibalism
Keep exploring: related care guides
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