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Phormingochilus pennellhewlettorum

Bario Bat-Eater - complete care guide

Bario Bat-Eater

Advanced care Demanding or potentially dangerous. May be very fast, defensive, or have medically significant venom. Experienced keepers only. 🌳 Arboreal Lives above ground in trees or plants. Needs height and vertical climbing surfaces. Secure lid essential - they climb glass. 🌍 Old World ⚠️ Defensive Will adopt a threat posture (rearing up, showing fangs) when disturbed. May bite if provoked. Approach with care and use a catch cup for rehoming. ⚑ Fast Moves very quickly, especially when startled. Can cross an enclosure in the blink of an eye. Not recommended for handling. πŸ•ΈοΈ Heavy webber Dense, prolific webbing behaviour. Will carpet the entire enclosure in thick silk - this is normal and healthy. Provides a visual indicator of the spider's territory. Old world Family: Theraphosidae
Phormingochilus pennellhewlettorum
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Temperature

20-25 Β°C

Target ambient range

Humidity

70-80 %

Substrate / enclosure RH

Adult DLS

13-16 cm

Average - varies per individual

Moult interval

Sling 4-7w - Juv 2-3.3mo

Adult 10-15mo

Adult cycle = mature females; males never moult again after maturity

About

The Bario Bat-Eater (Phormingochilus pennellhewlettorum, 2015) - a HIGHLAND tree tiger from the Kelabit Highlands of Sarawak, named for the Pennell-Hewlett family ("Jaman's Tree Tiger" honours a Bario village elder). Cooler-kept than its lowland cousins, which suits British houses perfectly. Defensive, agile, medically significant venom - a true advanced keeper's arboreal, rarely bred and priced at Β£45 a sling when CB stock appears.

Husbandry cheat sheet

Origin
Malaysia (Sarawak: Kelabit Highlands)
Habitat
Highland rainforest canopy
Temperament
Defensive
In your collection
0

Growth, lifespan & conservation

Growth rate
Medium
Maturity
♀ 36mo β™‚ 24mo
Lifespan
♀ 14yr β™‚ 4yr
Continent
Asia
UK availability
Rare in the hobby

Care Guide

Phormingochilus pennellhewlettorum

Bario Bat-Eater - a complete husbandry sheet. Use as a starting point and adjust to your individual specimen.

Field Notes
01

What size enclosure does a Bario Bat-Eater Tarantula need?

Adults

30 Γ— 30 Γ— 40 cm tall. Generous vertical cork and anchor points.

Slings & Juveniles

Small tall vials or arboreal sling tubs with vertical cork.

To map exact floor space and substrate safety limits for your setup, use our free interactive tarantula enclosure planner.

02

What temperature and humidity does a Bario Bat-Eater Tarantula need?

Heating

The Bario Bat-Eaters is comfortable at 20-25 Β°C - a cool-kept highland species; UK room temperature often suffices, and supplementary heat is usually a mistake.

Humidity

70-80 % with strong cross-flow: light misting of walls and web, barely damp substrate.

Ventilation

Cross-flow (top + side mesh) is non-negotiable.

03

What substrate is best for a Bario Bat-Eater Tarantula?

Recommended Mixes

βœ“ Coco fibre βœ“ Coco fibre / topsoil mix

Depth

3-5 cm

Notes

Mostly a moisture buffer - keep one corner lightly damp, never wet throughout.

04

How do you set up a Bario Bat-Eater Tarantula enclosure?

DΓ©cor

🌿 Vertical cork tubes 🌿 Cork bark slabs 🌿 Spider wood / branches 🌿 Fake vines and leaves 🌿 Bamboo

The Hide

A vertical cork tube retreat up off the floor, silk-lined within days.

Water

Shallow dish on the floor - keep it full and clean.

Lighting

Ambient room light only. Avoid basking lamps.

05

How often should you feed a Bario Bat-Eater Tarantula?

Slings Every 3-5 days (fruit flies, pre-killed crickets or tiny roach nymphs).
Juveniles Every 5-7 days (small crickets or roach nymphs).
Adults Every 7-10 days (large cricket or dubia).

Good Feeders

πŸ¦— Crickets πŸͺ³ Dubia roaches πŸ¦— Locusts πŸͺ³ Roach nymphs

Long refusal worrying you? Separate premoult fasting from genuine problems with our "Is my T okay?" checker.

06

Is my Bario Bat-Eater Tarantula dying or moulting?

Pre-moult signs to look for

Refusing food for weeks is normal before a moult - a healthy Bario Bat-Eater Tarantula fasting is almost never an emergency in itself. Watch for slowing down and spending more time in the hide, thickening the silk hammock it sleeps in. Old World species do not flick urticating hairs, so there is no bald patch to watch - rely on fasting, lethargy and hide time instead.

On its back is MOULTING, not dying

A Bario Bat-Eater Tarantula lying upside down or on its side with legs curled inwards is almost certainly mid-moult. Do not touch it, do not right it, do not mist it - just remove any live prey (crickets can kill a defenceless moulter) and leave the room.

How long between moults?

For this species, expect a moult roughly every 25-50 days for spiderlings, every 60-100 days for juveniles, and every 140-220 days for sub-adults, with adult females moulting around every 10 months (up to 14.7 months at the extreme). Males never moult again after their ultimate (mature) moult.

After the moult: fang hardening time

The new exoskeleton stays soft, with fangs that cannot grip, for roughly 7 days in this species. Offer no food and no handling for about 7 days - feeding too early is how fresh moulters get injured. The shed exuvium is also the best sexing tool there is - see our tarantula sexing guide for what to look for.

Genuinely worried about behaviour that is not moulting? Our "Is my T okay?" triage tool walks the danger signs one by one.

07

What ongoing care does a Bario Bat-Eater Tarantula need?

πŸͺž Moulting

Arboreals often moult suspended in a web hammock. Do not disturb, remove prey, and slightly raise humidity around the time. Wait 5-7 days post-moult before offering food. Adult intervals apply to mature females - males never moult after their ultimate moult.

🧹 Cleaning

Spot clean webbed boluses when visible; refresh the water dish weekly.

βœ‹ Handling

Never - defensive, fast, medically significant. Catch cup and lid discipline.

08

What are the most common mistakes when keeping Bario Bat-Eater Tarantulas?

βœ“ What They Love

  • Tall enclosure with vertical cork
  • COOL-side temperature - highland species
  • Humid with strong cross-flow
  • Clamping lid
  • Respect: defensive, potent venom

βœ• Common Mistakes

  • Overheating above ~27 Β°C - highland stock
  • Free handling
  • Stagnant air
  • Dry conditions

Keep exploring: related care guides

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