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Poecilotheria striata

Mysore Ornamental - complete care guide

Often searched as: Pocilotheria striata, Poecilothera striata.

Mysore Ornamental

Advanced care Demanding or potentially dangerous. May be very fast, defensive, or have medically significant venom. Experienced keepers only. 🌳 Arboreal Lives above ground in trees or plants. Needs height and vertical climbing surfaces. Secure lid essential - they climb glass. 🌍 Old World πŸ›ƒ CITES Appendix II ⚠️ Defensive Will adopt a threat posture (rearing up, showing fangs) when disturbed. May bite if provoked. Approach with care and use a catch cup for rehoming. ⚑ Fast Moves very quickly, especially when startled. Can cross an enclosure in the blink of an eye. Not recommended for handling. ☠️ Potent venom Possesses medically significant venom. A bite can cause intense pain, muscle cramps, sweating, and may require medical attention. Old World species typically fall here as they lack urticating hairs. πŸ•ΈοΈ Heavy webber Dense, prolific webbing behaviour. Will carpet the entire enclosure in thick silk - this is normal and healthy. Provides a visual indicator of the spider's territory. Family: Theraphosidae

πŸ›ƒ Legality & paperwork - CITES Appendix II

Poecilotheria striata is listed in CITES Appendix II. International sales or exports need CITES export permits - domestic UK sales between private keepers do not. No UK licence (including the Dangerous Wild Animals Act) is required to keep any tarantula species.

Poecilotheria striata
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Temperature

24-28 Β°C

Target ambient range

Humidity

65-75 %

Substrate / enclosure RH

Adult DLS

14-18 cm

Average - varies per individual

Moult interval

Sling 3-6w - Juv 2-3mo

Adult 8-10mo

Adult cycle = mature females; males never moult again after maturity

About

Yellow-and-black arboreal from south-west India. Bold and fast - secure the lid.

Husbandry cheat sheet

Origin
India (Karnataka)
Habitat
Dry forest
Temperament
Defensive
In your collection
0

Growth, lifespan & conservation

Growth rate
Fast
Maturity
♀ 14mo β™‚ 10mo
Lifespan
♀ 12yr β™‚ 2yr
Continent
Asia
CITES
CITES Appendix II
UK availability
Commonly available

Care Guide

Poecilotheria striata

Mysore Ornamental - a complete husbandry sheet. Use as a starting point and adjust to your individual specimen.

Field Notes
01

What size enclosure does a Mysore Ornamental Tarantula need?

Adults

45 Γ— 30 Γ— 45 cm tall - height matters more than footprint. Provide generous vertical cork and anchor points for webbing.

Slings & Juveniles

Small tall vials or arboreal sling tubs with a piece of vertical cork. Upgrade as they grow - arboreal slings do best slightly cramped, not in cavernous tanks.

To map exact floor space and substrate safety limits for your setup, use our free interactive tarantula enclosure planner.

02

What temperature and humidity does a Mysore Ornamental Tarantula need?

Heating

The Mysore Ornamental is comfortable at 24-28 Β°C. Most UK homes sit in or near this range for most of the year; heat the room rather than the enclosure if winter drops below it.

Humidity

Poecilotheria want 70-80 % humidity paired with relentless cross-ventilation - think "humid but breezy". Keep one cork retreat damp (pour a little water at its base, never spray the spider) and overflow the water dish weekly. Lowland species tolerate 24-28 Β°C; never let the enclosure exceed 30 Β°C.

Ventilation

The single most important husbandry factor for this species. Cross-flow (top + side mesh) is non-negotiable - stagnant air causes mould, mites and failed moults.

03

What substrate is best for a Mysore Ornamental Tarantula?

Recommended Mixes

βœ“ Coco fibre βœ“ Coco fibre / topsoil mix

Depth

3-6 cm

Notes

Substrate is mostly a moisture buffer - arboreals live above it. Keep one corner lightly damp, never wet throughout.

04

How do you set up a Mysore Ornamental Tarantula enclosure?

DΓ©cor

🌿 Vertical cork tubes 🌿 Cork bark slabs 🌿 Spider wood / branches 🌿 Fake vines and leaves 🌿 Bamboo 🌿 Multiple vertical cork tubes - pokies build leaf-nest style retreats behind and between them

The Hide

A vertical cork tube or propped bark retreat positioned up off the floor - the higher the retreat, the more the spider uses it.

Water

Shallow dish on the floor. Even dedicated canopy dwellers descend to drink - keep it full and clean.

Lighting

Ambient room light only. Avoid basking lamps - they desiccate arboreal species quickly.

05

How often should you feed a Mysore Ornamental Tarantula?

Slings Every 3-4 days (fruit flies or pre-killed pinheads).
Juveniles Every 4-6 days (small crickets or roach nymphs).
Adults Every 7-10 days (large cricket, roach or locust).

Good Feeders

πŸ¦— Crickets πŸͺ³ Dubia roaches πŸ¦— Locusts πŸͺ³ Roach nymphs πŸ› Waxworms (rare treat)

Long refusal worrying you? Separate premoult fasting from genuine problems with our "Is my T okay?" checker.

06

Is my Mysore Ornamental Tarantula dying or moulting?

Pre-moult signs to look for

Refusing food for weeks is normal before a moult - a healthy Mysore Ornamental Tarantula fasting is almost never an emergency in itself. Watch for slowing down and spending more time in the hide, thickening the silk hammock it sleeps in. Old World species do not flick urticating hairs, so there is no bald patch to watch - rely on fasting, lethargy and hide time instead.

On its back is MOULTING, not dying

A Mysore Ornamental Tarantula lying upside down or on its side with legs curled inwards is almost certainly mid-moult. Do not touch it, do not right it, do not mist it - just remove any live prey (crickets can kill a defenceless moulter) and leave the room.

How long between moults?

For this species, expect a moult roughly every 21-42 days for spiderlings, every 60-90 days for juveniles, and every 135-191 days for sub-adults, with adult females moulting around every 7.5 months (up to 9.8 months at the extreme). Males never moult again after their ultimate (mature) moult.

After the moult: fang hardening time

The new exoskeleton stays soft, with fangs that cannot grip, for roughly 6 days in this species. Offer no food and no handling for about 7 days - feeding too early is how fresh moulters get injured. The shed exuvium is also the best sexing tool there is - see our tarantula sexing guide for what to look for.

Genuinely worried about behaviour that is not moulting? Our "Is my T okay?" triage tool walks the danger signs one by one.

07

What ongoing care does a Mysore Ornamental Tarantula need?

πŸͺž Moulting

Arboreals often moult suspended in a web hammock. Do not disturb, remove prey, and slightly raise humidity around the time. Wait 5-7 days post-moult before offering food. Adult intervals apply to mature females - males never moult after their ultimate moult. Poecilotheria moult inside their web retreats - a sealed-up pokie is nearly always in premoult, not sick.

🧹 Cleaning

Spot clean webbed boluses when visible, refresh the water dish weekly. Full clean only when soiled - established webbing is valuable to the spider.

βœ‹ Handling

Never. Mysore Ornamental are among the fastest tarantulas in the hobby with genuinely medically significant venom. Treat every enclosure-opening like a two-person job with a catch cup sealed and ready.

08

What are the most common mistakes when keeping Mysore Ornamental Tarantulas?

βœ“ What They Love

  • Tall enclosure with vertical cork
  • Strong cross-ventilation
  • Mist one wall - let it cycle dry
  • Clamping/secure lid - arboreals are escape artists

βœ• Common Mistakes

  • Waterlogged substrate
  • Sealed, unventilated tanks
  • Heat from below
  • Free handling - jumps and falls kill
  • Opening the enclosure without locating the spider first
  • Warm, stagnant setups - pokies need airflow WITH humidity

Keep exploring: related care guides

More arboreal species and close relatives from our full library:

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