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Psednocnemis brachyramosa

Malaysian Blue Femur - complete care guide

Malaysian Blue Femur

Advanced care Demanding or potentially dangerous. May be very fast, defensive, or have medically significant venom. Experienced keepers only. πŸ•³οΈ Fossorial Lives underground in deep burrows. Needs deep, packed substrate to dig. You may rarely see them - patience required. 🌍 Old World ⚠️ Defensive Will adopt a threat posture (rearing up, showing fangs) when disturbed. May bite if provoked. Approach with care and use a catch cup for rehoming. πŸ•ΈοΈ Heavy webber Dense, prolific webbing behaviour. Will carpet the entire enclosure in thick silk - this is normal and healthy. Provides a visual indicator of the spider's territory. Old world Family: Theraphosidae
Psednocnemis brachyramosa
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Temperature

20-26 Β°C

Target ambient range

Humidity

70-80 %

Substrate / enclosure RH

Adult DLS

10-12 cm

Average - varies per individual

Moult interval

Sling 4-7w - Juv 2-3.3mo

Adult 10-15mo

Adult cycle = mature females; males never moult again after maturity

About

The Malaysian Blue Femur (Psednocnemis brachyramosa, ex-Coremiocnemis) - a compact Fraser's Hill highlander whose drab brown slings transform into adults with iridescent blue femurs banded in gold. Relatively docile FOR an Old World (bolter more than brawler), but still fast with medically significant venom and a deep-burrow, seen-once-a-month lifestyle. Care-sheet sources conflict wildly on temperature - a moderate 20-26 Β°C with moist substrate is the safe highland compromise. Rare at Β£45 a sling; a gem for genus collectors.

Husbandry cheat sheet

Origin
Malaysia (Peninsular: Fraser's Hill)
Habitat
Highland rainforest - deep moist burrows
Temperament
Defensive
In your collection
0

Growth, lifespan & conservation

Growth rate
Medium
Maturity
♀ 36mo β™‚ 24mo
Lifespan
♀ 12yr β™‚ 3yr
Continent
Asia
UK availability
Rare in the hobby

Care Guide

Psednocnemis brachyramosa

Malaysian Blue Femur - a complete husbandry sheet. Use as a starting point and adjust to your individual specimen.

Field Notes
01

What size enclosure does a Malaysian Blue Femur Tarantula need?

Adults

25 Γ— 25 cm footprint with 15 cm of substrate.

Slings & Juveniles

Small tubs with 10 cm of substrate and a starter hole.

To map exact floor space and substrate safety limits for your setup, use our free interactive tarantula enclosure planner.

02

What temperature and humidity does a Malaysian Blue Femur Tarantula need?

Heating

The Malaysian Blue Femurs is comfortable at 20-26 Β°C - split the difference between the conflicting care-sheet extremes with moderate highland warmth; avoid baking.

Humidity

70-80 %: keep the lower substrate consistently damp (never sodden) with strong cross-flow.

Ventilation

Cross-ventilation with high humidity.

03

What substrate is best for a Malaysian Blue Femur Tarantula?

Recommended Mixes

βœ“ Coco fibre / topsoil mix βœ“ Coco fibre

Depth

15 cm

Notes

Deep, moist and packed, holding burrows. Damp below, slightly drier above.

04

How do you set up a Malaysian Blue Femur Tarantula enclosure?

DΓ©cor

🌿 Cork bark (burrow anchors) 🌿 Spider wood / branches 🌿 Fake plants 🌿 Bamboo

The Hide

Its own deep moist burrow - 15 cm of packed substrate; rarely seen by day.

Water

Shallow dish at surface level - keep full and clean.

Lighting

Ambient room light only.

05

How often should you feed a Malaysian Blue Femur Tarantula?

Slings Every 3-5 days (fruit flies, pre-killed crickets or tiny roach nymphs).
Juveniles Every 5-7 days (small crickets or roach nymphs).
Adults Every 7-10 days (medium roach).

Good Feeders

πŸ¦— Crickets πŸͺ³ Dubia roaches πŸͺ³ Red runner roaches πŸ¦— Locusts

Long refusal worrying you? Separate premoult fasting from genuine problems with our "Is my T okay?" checker.

06

Is my Malaysian Blue Femur Tarantula dying or moulting?

Pre-moult signs to look for

Refusing food for weeks is normal before a moult - a healthy Malaysian Blue Femur Tarantula fasting is almost never an emergency in itself. Watch for slowing down and spending more time in the hide, sealing the burrow entrance with silk (a sealed door usually means "do not disturb - moulting in progress"), laying a thick moult mat of web on the floor. Old World species do not flick urticating hairs, so there is no bald patch to watch - rely on fasting, lethargy and hide time instead.

On its back is MOULTING, not dying

A Malaysian Blue Femur Tarantula lying upside down or on its side with legs curled inwards is almost certainly mid-moult. Do not touch it, do not right it, do not mist it - just remove any live prey (crickets can kill a defenceless moulter) and leave the room.

How long between moults?

For this species, expect a moult roughly every 25-50 days for spiderlings, every 60-100 days for juveniles, and every 140-220 days for sub-adults, with adult females moulting around every 10 months (up to 14.7 months at the extreme). Males never moult again after their ultimate (mature) moult.

After the moult: fang hardening time

The new exoskeleton stays soft, with fangs that cannot grip, for roughly 7 days in this species. Offer no food and no handling for about 7 days - feeding too early is how fresh moulters get injured. The shed exuvium is also the best sexing tool there is - see our tarantula sexing guide for what to look for.

Genuinely worried about behaviour that is not moulting? Our "Is my T okay?" triage tool walks the danger signs one by one.

07

What ongoing care does a Malaysian Blue Femur Tarantula need?

πŸͺž Moulting

Moults at the burrow bottom behind a plug. Do not excavate. Keep humidity steady and prey out; wait until it reopens and the fangs are black before feeding. Adult intervals apply to mature females - males never moult after their ultimate moult.

🧹 Cleaning

Weekly: refresh the water dish and clear boluses with tongs. Full cleans need a rehouse plan.

βœ‹ Handling

Never - fast with potent venom even if docile by Old World standards. Catch cup.

08

What are the most common mistakes when keeping Malaysian Blue Femur Tarantulas?

βœ“ What They Love

  • Deep moist substrate for burrows
  • Moderate-highland temperature
  • Strong cross-flow
  • Long tongs and lid discipline
  • Enjoying the sling-to-adult colour transformation

βœ• Common Mistakes

  • Free handling
  • Dry substrate
  • Overheating - highland stock
  • Expecting a display spider

Keep exploring: related care guides

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