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Selenocosmia arndsti

New Guinea Rust Orange - complete care guide

New Guinea Rust Orange

Advanced care Demanding or potentially dangerous. May be very fast, defensive, or have medically significant venom. Experienced keepers only. 🌍 Terrestrial Lives on or near the ground. Needs floor space more than height. Falls from height can be fatal - keep dΓ©cor low. 🌍 Old World ⚠️ Defensive Will adopt a threat posture (rearing up, showing fangs) when disturbed. May bite if provoked. Approach with care and use a catch cup for rehoming. ⚑ Fast Moves very quickly, especially when startled. Can cross an enclosure in the blink of an eye. Not recommended for handling. πŸ•ΈοΈ Heavy webber Dense, prolific webbing behaviour. Will carpet the entire enclosure in thick silk - this is normal and healthy. Provides a visual indicator of the spider's territory. Old world Family: Theraphosidae
Selenocosmia arndsti
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Temperature

24-27 Β°C

Target ambient range

Humidity

70-80 %

Substrate / enclosure RH

Adult DLS

15-18 cm

Average - varies per individual

Moult interval

Sling 3-7w - Juv 1.8-3mo

Adult 9-14mo

Adult cycle = mature females; males never moult again after maturity

About

The New Guinea Rust Orange ("Rusty Striker") - bright orange legs and carapace against pitch-black femora and abdomen, on a slender 15-18 cm frame. UK vendor disposition: "Psycho" - skittish, defensive, bolts first and stridulates when cornered, with potent Old World venom and no urticating hairs. Straightforward warm-and-humid husbandry with WC slings cheap at Β£25; the challenge is respect, not care. Advanced keepers.

Husbandry cheat sheet

Origin
New Guinea
Habitat
Tropical forest - shallow burrows and heavy webbing
Temperament
Defensive
In your collection
0

Growth, lifespan & conservation

Growth rate
Fast
Maturity
♀ 36mo β™‚ 24mo
Lifespan
♀ 14yr β™‚ 3yr
Continent
Oceania
UK availability
Uncommon

Care Guide

Selenocosmia arndsti

New Guinea Rust Orange - a complete husbandry sheet. Use as a starting point and adjust to your individual specimen.

Field Notes
01

What size enclosure does a New Guinea Rust Orange Tarantula need?

Adults

35 Γ— 25 cm footprint (bolting space) with 8-10 cm of substrate.

Slings & Juveniles

Small tubs with 5-6 cm of substrate and a hide.

To map exact floor space and substrate safety limits for your setup, use our free interactive tarantula enclosure planner.

02

What temperature and humidity does a New Guinea Rust Orange Tarantula need?

Heating

The New Guinea Rust Oranges is comfortable at 24-27 Β°C with a night drop; UK homes need supplementary warmth for much of the year - warm the room, never the tank floor.

Humidity

70-80 %: keep the substrate lightly and consistently moist with strong airflow.

Ventilation

Cross-ventilation with moderate-high humidity.

03

What substrate is best for a New Guinea Rust Orange Tarantula?

Recommended Mixes

βœ“ Coco fibre / topsoil mix βœ“ Coco fibre

Depth

8-10 cm

Notes

Moderate depth, lightly moist, holding a shallow burrow and web structure.

04

How do you set up a New Guinea Rust Orange Tarantula enclosure?

DΓ©cor

🌿 Cork bark 🌿 Spider wood / driftwood 🌿 Fake plants 🌿 Bamboo

The Hide

A shallow burrow under cork or a heavy webbed retreat around a hide.

Water

Shallow dish at surface level - keep full and clean.

Lighting

Ambient room light only.

05

How often should you feed a New Guinea Rust Orange Tarantula?

Slings Every 3-5 days (fruit flies, pre-killed crickets or tiny roach nymphs).
Juveniles Every 5-7 days (small crickets or roach nymphs).
Adults Every 7-10 days (large roach).

Good Feeders

πŸ¦— Crickets πŸͺ³ Dubia roaches πŸͺ³ Red runner roaches πŸ¦— Locusts

Long refusal worrying you? Separate premoult fasting from genuine problems with our "Is my T okay?" checker.

06

Is my New Guinea Rust Orange Tarantula dying or moulting?

Pre-moult signs to look for

Refusing food for weeks is normal before a moult - a healthy New Guinea Rust Orange Tarantula fasting is almost never an emergency in itself. Watch for slowing down and spending more time in the hide, laying a thick moult mat of web on the floor. Old World species do not flick urticating hairs, so there is no bald patch to watch - rely on fasting, lethargy and hide time instead.

On its back is MOULTING, not dying

A New Guinea Rust Orange Tarantula lying upside down or on its side with legs curled inwards is almost certainly mid-moult. Do not touch it, do not right it, do not mist it - just remove any live prey (crickets can kill a defenceless moulter) and leave the room.

How long between moults?

For this species, expect a moult roughly every 24-48 days for spiderlings, every 55-90 days for juveniles, and every 130-210 days for sub-adults, with adult females moulting around every 9.3 months (up to 14 months at the extreme). Males never moult again after their ultimate (mature) moult.

After the moult: fang hardening time

The new exoskeleton stays soft, with fangs that cannot grip, for roughly 8 days in this species. Offer no food and no handling for about 8 days - feeding too early is how fresh moulters get injured. The shed exuvium is also the best sexing tool there is - see our tarantula sexing guide for what to look for.

Genuinely worried about behaviour that is not moulting? Our "Is my T okay?" triage tool walks the danger signs one by one.

07

What ongoing care does a New Guinea Rust Orange Tarantula need?

πŸͺž Moulting

Moults in the retreat or burrow. Do not disturb; keep prey out and humidity steady; wait until the fangs are black and hard before feeding. Adult intervals apply to mature females - males never moult after their ultimate moult.

🧹 Cleaning

Weekly: refresh the water dish and clear boluses with tongs.

βœ‹ Handling

Never - skittish, fast, potent venom. Catch cup and lid discipline.

08

What are the most common mistakes when keeping New Guinea Rust Orange Tarantulas?

βœ“ What They Love

  • Warm with a night drop
  • Moist (not wet) substrate with cross-flow
  • A hide plus anchor points for webbing
  • Long tongs and lid discipline
  • Respect: skittish, fast, potent venom

βœ• Common Mistakes

  • Free handling
  • Dry conditions
  • Open-lid maintenance
  • Crowding the enclosure - it bolts

Keep exploring: related care guides

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