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Pterinochilus murinus DCF

Kigoma Starburst Baboon - complete care guide

Kigoma Starburst Baboon

Advanced care Demanding or potentially dangerous. May be very fast, defensive, or have medically significant venom. Experienced keepers only. 🌍 Terrestrial Lives on or near the ground. Needs floor space more than height. Falls from height can be fatal - keep dΓ©cor low. 🌍 Old World ⚠️ Defensive Will adopt a threat posture (rearing up, showing fangs) when disturbed. May bite if provoked. Approach with care and use a catch cup for rehoming. ⚑ Fast Moves very quickly, especially when startled. Can cross an enclosure in the blink of an eye. Not recommended for handling. πŸ•ΈοΈ Heavy webber Dense, prolific webbing behaviour. Will carpet the entire enclosure in thick silk - this is normal and healthy. Provides a visual indicator of the spider's territory. Old world 🍽️ Voracious eater Aggressive feeding response. Will tackle prey eagerly and rarely refuses a meal. Adjust feeding schedule accordingly - overfeeding shortens lifespan. Family: Theraphosidae
Pterinochilus murinus DCF
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Temperature

24-28 Β°C

Target ambient range

Humidity

60-70 %

Substrate / enclosure RH

Adult DLS

11-14 cm

Average - varies per individual

Moult interval

Sling 2-5w - Juv 1.3-2.3mo

Adult 8-12mo

Adult cycle = mature females; males never moult again after maturity

About

The Kigoma Starburst Baboon - the DARK colour form (DCF) of Pterinochilus murinus from Kigoma, Tanzania, and southward into Botswana and Zimbabwe: charcoal-grey setae with the starburst pattern in gunmetal rather than orange. Same animal, different paint - and a slightly more subdued look that many keepers prefer. Full OBT behaviour and ease of care; a little harder to find than the orange forms (around Β£28 for juveniles).

Husbandry cheat sheet

Origin
Tanzania (Kigoma) / Botswana / Zimbabwe
Habitat
Dry scrub and mopane woodland - web fortresses
Temperament
Defensive
In your collection
0

Growth, lifespan & conservation

Growth rate
Fast
Maturity
♀ 18mo β™‚ 12mo
Lifespan
♀ 14yr β™‚ 3yr
Continent
Africa
UK availability
Uncommon

Care Guide

Pterinochilus murinus DCF

Kigoma Starburst Baboon - a complete husbandry sheet. Use as a starting point and adjust to your individual specimen.

Field Notes
01

What size enclosure does a Kigoma Starburst Baboon Tarantula need?

Adults

30 Γ— 25 cm footprint with 10-15 cm of substrate.

Slings & Juveniles

Small tubs with 6-8 cm of substrate and an anchor.

To map exact floor space and substrate safety limits for your setup, use our free interactive tarantula enclosure planner.

02

What temperature and humidity does a Kigoma Starburst Baboon Tarantula need?

Heating

The Kigoma Starburst Baboons is comfortable at 24-28 Β°C. UK homes need supplementary warmth for much of the year; warm the room, never the tank floor.

Humidity

60-70 %: dry substrate, full water dish.

Ventilation

Cross-ventilation with a dry setup.

03

What substrate is best for a Kigoma Starburst Baboon Tarantula?

Recommended Mixes

βœ“ Coco fibre βœ“ Coco fibre / topsoil mix

Depth

10-15 cm

Notes

Deep and dry-packed, anchoring the fortress web.

04

How do you set up a Kigoma Starburst Baboon Tarantula enclosure?

DΓ©cor

🌿 Cork bark (web anchors) 🌿 Spider wood / branches 🌿 Fake plants 🌿 Bamboo

The Hide

Its own web fortress from substrate to lid.

Water

Always provide a shallow water dish at the fortress edge.

Lighting

Ambient room light only.

05

How often should you feed a Kigoma Starburst Baboon Tarantula?

Slings Every 3-4 days (fruit flies, pre-killed crickets or tiny roach nymphs).
Juveniles Every 4-6 days (small crickets or roach nymphs).
Adults Every 7 days (large roach).

Good Feeders

πŸ¦— Crickets πŸͺ³ Dubia roaches πŸͺ³ Red runner roaches πŸ¦— Locusts

Long refusal worrying you? Separate premoult fasting from genuine problems with our "Is my T okay?" checker.

06

Is my Kigoma Starburst Baboon Tarantula dying or moulting?

Pre-moult signs to look for

Refusing food for weeks is normal before a moult - a healthy Kigoma Starburst Baboon Tarantula fasting is almost never an emergency in itself. Watch for slowing down and spending more time in the hide, laying a thick moult mat of web on the floor. Old World species do not flick urticating hairs, so there is no bald patch to watch - rely on fasting, lethargy and hide time instead.

On its back is MOULTING, not dying

A Kigoma Starburst Baboon Tarantula lying upside down or on its side with legs curled inwards is almost certainly mid-moult. Do not touch it, do not right it, do not mist it - just remove any live prey (crickets can kill a defenceless moulter) and leave the room.

How long between moults?

For this species, expect a moult roughly every 16-32 days for spiderlings, every 40-68 days for juveniles, and every 95-150 days for sub-adults, with adult females moulting around every 8 months (up to 12 months at the extreme). Males never moult again after their ultimate (mature) moult.

After the moult: fang hardening time

The new exoskeleton stays soft, with fangs that cannot grip, for roughly 6 days in this species. Offer no food and no handling for about 7 days - feeding too early is how fresh moulters get injured. The shed exuvium is also the best sexing tool there is - see our tarantula sexing guide for what to look for.

Genuinely worried about behaviour that is not moulting? Our "Is my T okay?" triage tool walks the danger signs one by one.

07

What ongoing care does a Kigoma Starburst Baboon Tarantula need?

πŸͺž Moulting

Moults inside the web fortress, often sealed in. Do not open the system; keep the water dish full and wait until it reopens with hard black fangs before feeding. Adult intervals apply to mature females - males never moult after their ultimate moult.

🧹 Cleaning

Weekly: refresh the water dish and clear boluses via the web with tongs. Full cleans need a rehouse plan.

βœ‹ Handling

Never - full OBT behaviour. Catch cup, lid discipline, full attention.

08

What are the most common mistakes when keeping Kigoma Starburst Baboon Tarantulas?

βœ“ What They Love

  • Deep substrate for the fortress
  • Dry-side setup with a full water dish
  • Warm and stable
  • Long tongs and lid discipline
  • Secure clamping lid - they climb

βœ• Common Mistakes

  • Free handling - bites without warning
  • Wet substrate
  • Open-lid maintenance
  • Underestimating the speed

Keep exploring: related care guides

More ground-dwelling species and close relatives from our full library:

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